Home News Travelogue – Batanes, the Secret Places in the Philippines

Travelogue – Batanes, the Secret Places in the Philippines

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Travelogue - Batanes, the Secret Places in the Philippines

The raging sea beats the island of Batanes’ as if to say I am King˳

The waves violently slap the rocks with enviable freedom˳ Its stammering power heeds no remorse˳

The island however doesn’t back down, doesn’t fold-up or disintegrates˳ It takes a proud beating with a ‘Hah’, I am Batanes˳

Batanes should indeed be proud of its coffers˳ It offers an amazing landscape that is as complex as a Roger Dean art work˳ The twisting spiraling mountains roll for miles and miles carpeted with green pastures˳ Atop its numerous cliffs one can get a front seat view of the feisty merging waters of the China Sea with the Pacific Ocean˳

There is also something incredibly charming about the island’s unique stone houses˳ Around 3 meters thick, these rock abodes crafted by the ancestors have stood against torturous rain and bullying winds˳ The roofs are made of cogon providing water proof shade˳ From afar the houses create an amazing texture of color and form that is bucolic and unlike anything that I’ve ever been in the provinces I’ve visited˳

In spite the amazing scenery the island’s greatest strength is its people – the Ivatans˳ Storm warriors by birth they still posses a gentle demeanor, friendly disposition and an unbelievable sense of trustworthiness˳ Crime is said to be non-existent in Batanes and people find no need to lock their doors˳ There is even a sign posted in the city treasury that reads “LOST AND FOUND – MONEY˳ Please claim inside”˳

As most travel junkies know Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines and its smallest island both in terms of land area and population˳ Among its ten petite islands only three are inhabited – Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang˳ Sandwiched by Babuyan Island and Taiwan, the province is closer to Taipei than Manila˳ In fact an urban legend states that on a clear day one can see Taiwan and hear Chinese roosters crow˳

Growth in Batanes’ tourism has been spurred by airlines such as Asian Spirit that conveniently jets weekly flights (for a P10,000 round trip ticket price)˳ Surprisingly posh, the main airport is located in Basco, the province’s capital (found in Batan island)˳ Albeit the flight being a bit choppy, I land safely in Batanes and seek my adventure˳

DAY 1 – Going around Basco

A refreshing contrast to other city centers, Basco has neither a mall nor a Starbucks coffee shop – yet˳ The pseudo-commercial center is a small lane filled with tiny groceries, supplies stores and ukay-ukay shops˳ Zero tricycles explain the quiet streets and only a couple of jeeps and automobiles exist here˳

2:00 pm

Shanedel’s, a family managed inn is a great place to bunk˳ The place has a killer view of the Batan Bay and is right beside the busy Basco port˳ An old lighthouse perched on a hill can also be seen˳ Languid cows graze the pasture˳ The bovines stood so still I almost doubted they were real˳

5:10 pm

Conveniently, the lighthouse is just a 20 minute walk from my place˳ The sky was turning crimson as the sun prepared to rest when the moon decided to drop by˳ I can’t tell you how amazing it is to see the sun set and the moon reveal itself simultaneously˳

8:45 pm

Fried flying fish, was my first Batanes dinner˳ The meat was okay˳ Nothing fantastic˳

DAY 2 Exploring Batan Island

Batan, is Batanes’ second largest island that serve as the center of commerce and houses the seat of the provincial government˳ Travelers can arrange tour rides that will explore Batan’s municipalities which include Basco, Ivana, Uyugan and Mahatao˳

10 am

The ‘jeepney topload’ is the best seat to take when viewing Batan’s landscape˳ The ride snakes through the island’s rolling terrain˳ Above me are spectacular mountain formations that resemble stoic hunched-back giants˳ The white sand beach below me boasts pristine waters that splash against massive rocks˳

Occasionally the driver parks his vehicle and allows my group to go down to absorb the scenery˳ There is nothing more lovely than sitting at edge of a cliff to stare at the horizon˳ No skyscraper, no boats, not a single living person litter my view, just clear blue skies˳ I pretend this really is the edge of the world˳

12:30 pm – Honesty Store in the town of Ivana

Lunch takes place in an unmanned small canteen stocked with goodies (mami, chips, sodas, biscuits)˳ Owners put their faith in customers’ honesty…hence the store moniker˳

2:10 pm – Marlboro Country

After a belly filling lunch I head Payaman town dubbed as Marlboro Country˳ The tour guide boasts ‘Makikita mo parang wala ka sa Pilipinas’˳ The town does have a different feel to it˳ The pasture, from a far, is a mixture of deep green and brown hues˳ The guide explained the brown color is actually thin bamboo wood that cordons an Ivantan family’s land from his neighbor˳ This village is Batanes’ version of Tagaytay Highlands but instead of golf courses it is actually cattle pasture˳ Fantastic!

DAY 3- Sabtang Island

Sabtang is considered one of the 12 best destinations by the Department of Tourism in 1994˳ Compared to Batan, the island is less affluent but is more charming (in my opinion)˳ Batan’s modern influences has converted its precious stone houses to concrete walls and thatched roofs˳ Meanwhile Sabtang still has their cobble stoned streets and stone houses intact˳ Albeit the Sabtang is also beginning to deteriorate as people there are starting to modernize their houses˳ The danger of spoilage of Batanes is an issue the government must pay attention but that’s another article altogether˳

Sabtang’s landscape is also more breathtaking than Batan’s˳ Steep mountains, deep cannons and a seemingly endless strip of white beach is amazing˳ Sheer limestone cliffs that plunge into cerulean waters below makes it so surreal˳ I was able to swim in Batanes waters!

P˳S˳ Oh and by the way I saw an independent movie production shooting a scene in the island (these guys did the indie film called Donsol)˳ I heard Angel Aquino was the star˳ Interesting…

8 pm – Dinner Time

A birthday party thrown by a fellow adventure seeker spiced up the night˳ A belly popping feast includes fresh tuna sashimi, lobsters and lechon˳ We washed it down with a Pinoy ubiquitous drink – Tanduay˳ Yum˳

Other memorable dishes I had in Batanes were fresh blue marlin tuna steak, green pepper filled lapu-lapu fillet, beef steak (lemme tell you they have lots of cows here), cuttle fish and pizza˳ Yes pizza…there is a pizza maker in Basco named Ivan, my favorite flavors are pepperoni, garlic and cheese and anchovies pizza˳ You have to order in advance to be able to enjoy its yumminess˳

DAY 4 – Going Home

Flights from Batanes to Manila always take off at around 10 am˳ There was a certain melancholic feeling that washed over me as I left the quaint island˳ Probably because I’ll be going back to the circus I call my life˳ I guess one thing I have in common with Batanes is that just like its islands I always try to win over life’s metaphoric raging waves˳

THE CHECKLIST

Batanes will definitely see me again˳ There are also so many stuff I wasn’t able to do˳

Here is my list:

1˳ Fly to Itbaya which is Batanes third inhabited island˳ I was supposed to go but unfortunately the only light aircraft that flies to the island was broken˳ For those who wish to go to Batanes I suggest you go explore Itbaya first before doing the other island as it is much harder to access˳

2˳ Climb Mount Iraya

3˳ Visit Mavudis island which is the northernmost island of Batanes˳ Coconut crabs litter the rich marine life filled island˳

4˳ Explore Nakabuwang Cave in Sabtang and the Chawa cave which is said to be enchanted˳ It has a natural salt bed and a mouth that opens to South China Sea˳

Lastly I would like to surf, wouldn’t it be so badass to say to Batanes raging waters ‘HAH I am the Queen’?

Bring a digital camera! Check http://www˳camera˳co˳uk



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